Moda e identidade no cenário contemporâneo brasileiro: uma análise semiótica das coleções de Ronaldo Fraga

Abstract

From the middle of the 20thcentury on, Brazilian fashion, understood as a language phenomenon, has been looking forward to producing a sense effect of authenticity. The communication of values shown by personal appearance is exacerbated through the discourse of fashion creators whose enunciation strategies ratify authorial style. Using the theoretical references of discursive semiotics, notably the postulations by AIgirdas Julien Greimas and bis collaborators, the present study aims to analyze how an exponent of this generation, fashion designer Ronaldo Fraga, projected in the discourse on the role of the one who enunciates, positions bis collections - from fashion looks to advertisement campaigns - as a value-object to consumer-subjects. From this edification of both enunciator and enunciatee, the semiotic study allows to deduce the building of an identity simulacrumin contemporary Brazilian fashion. Thirteen fashion collections produced between 1996 and 2002 were investigated, examining how dressing creations by Ronaldo Fraga are articulated in each dressing piece by an expr~ssionplan related to a contents planoIt was algo studied how the homologation of both plans among items of such collections allows to determine constants in his work in terms of which values they circulate and which discursive strategies are used in the edification of such textoA deep analysis of the collection entitled Who Killed Zuzu Angel7 algo allowed to investigate in which way advertisement reaffirms sense effects built by the enunciator, expanding their visibility. The analysis brought up which figurativizations present brand identity in them and through them, configuring a cognitive sanction which recognizes a style with legitimacy, credibility and dosed emotion. As a result, the research apprehended that intertextuality, centered in irony, is used by the enunciator as an important component of meaning, incorporating and refreshing other cultural texts in bis 0'>"11textual constructions, so as to produce a knowledge which promotes, to a certain extent, a renovation in the fashion system. It was concluded that this knowledge donates competence to the consumer-subject, for fashion conceived by a creator, acting as a helper, empowers him to be authentic and to interfere in the fading of meaning in everyday life